WHAT?
The art of Bandhani is highly skilled process. The technique involves dyeing a fabric
which is tied tightly with a thread at several points,thus producing a variety of patterns
like Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is
tied.
WHEN?
Different forms of tie and dye have been practiced in India. Indian Bandhani, a
traditional form of tie and dye, began about 5000 years ago. Also known as Bandhani
and Bandhej, it is the oldest tie and dye tradition that is still practiced.
Ancient artists discovered that some dyes dissolved and gave their
color readily to water, forming a solution which was easily absorbed by the fabric. Herbs
and plants like turmeric and indigo were crushed to a fine powder and dissolved in
waters that cotton material could be dyed into deep colors. These colors have been
used in India since ancient times and are considered to be the origin of the art of dyeing.
Throughout Asia, India and the Far East, traders packed tie and dye cloths as part of
their merchandise.
Bandhani was introduced in Jamnagar when the city was founded 400 years ago.
Bandhani fabrics reign supreme in Rajasthan and Gujarat which are home to an
astounding variety of traditional crafts. Century‐old skills continue to produce some of
the most artistic and exciting wares in these two states and are popular all over the
world.
WHERE?
The art of Bandhani is practiced widely in Rajasthan, with Barmer,Jaipur, Sikar, Jodhpur,
Pali Udaipur, Nathdwara and Bikaner being the main centers. Bandhani comes in a
variety of designs, colors and motifs and these variations are region‐specific. Each
district has its own distinct method of Bandhani which makes the pattern recognizable
and gives it a different name.
The centers of tie and dye fabrics in Gujarat are Jamnagar in Saurashtra (the water in
this area brings out the brightest red while dyeing) and Ahmedabad. The craftsmen
from Rajasthan are easily recognized because they grow the nail of their little finger or
wear a small metal ring with a point to facilitate the lifting of cloth for tying. The
Gujarati craftsmen, however, prefer to work without these aids as no damage is done to
the cloth when one works with bare hands.
The Bandhani regions are
Rajasthan -Marwar‐‐Jodhpur,Mewar‐‐Udaipur,Shekhawati‐‐Sikar,Jhunjhunu, Churu
Gujarat -Jamnagar, Bhuj, Mandavi
Uttar Pradesh -Farukabad
It is difficult to trace the origins of this craft to any particular area. According to some
references it first developed in Jaipur in the form of Leheriya. But it is also widely
believed that it was brought to Kutch from Sindh by Muslim Khatris who are still the
largest community involved in the craft.
RAW MATERIAL :
The fabrics used for Bandhani are muslin, handloom, silk or voile.Various synthetic fabrics are also highly in demand.For tying knots mostly synthetic thread is used on the fabric.
Traditionally vegetable dyes were used but today chemical dyes are becoming very popular.
HOW?
PROCESS :The process, though relatively simple, is very time‐consuming. The tying of the fabric is
mostly carried out by women or young girls.
The material generally used is a thin loosely woven silk known as georgette or a cotton
known as malmal
After tying the knots the fabric is thoroughly washed to remove the imprint.
The cloth is then dipped in napthol for five minutes and dyed in yellow or another light
color for two minutes.
Very elaborate motifs are made, in tie and dye work. These include flowers, creepers,
bells and jalas. Knots are placed in clusters each with a different name, for example, a
single dot is called Ekdali, three knots is called Trikunti and four knots is called
Chaubundi. Such clusters are worked intricately into patterns such as Shikargah
(mountain‐like), Jaaldar(web‐like), Beldaar(vine‐like) etc.
Rajasthan is well known for its Leheriya pattern or pattern of waves, which symbolizes
water waves.Only two colors are used which alternate each other in a pattern of stripes
arranged diagonally.Originally,the two colors used were the auspicious colors of yellow
and red. Turbans, odhnis and saris with the leheriya pattern are liked and worn all
around year.
In Bandhani, different colors convey different meanings.
While red represents a bride, a yellow background suggests a lady has become a mother recently.
MARKET :
The bulk of the market is domestic with the main market being in Gujarat where most women wear Bandhani saris, shawls or odhnis. The odhnis are also decorated with mirrors, gota and
tassels to give it a richer and more decorative look.
Today, designers are using Bandhani fabric for contemporary clothing and it is being used to represent India in the international circuit. New colors and patterns are being used to cater to a wider market, though traditional red, yellow and pink still continue to be the all‐time favorites!
Bibliography
1. http://www.indianwomenonline.com/womenhome/indianmosaic/textiles/Bandh
ani/Bandhani.asp
2. www.greatvistachemicals.com
3. http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/fiberreactive.shtml
4. http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/history_tiedye.shtml
The art of Bandhani is highly skilled process. The technique involves dyeing a fabric
which is tied tightly with a thread at several points,thus producing a variety of patterns
like Leheriya, Mothra, Ekdali and Shikari depending on the manner in which the cloth is
tied.
WHEN?
Different forms of tie and dye have been practiced in India. Indian Bandhani, a
traditional form of tie and dye, began about 5000 years ago. Also known as Bandhani
and Bandhej, it is the oldest tie and dye tradition that is still practiced.
Ancient artists discovered that some dyes dissolved and gave their
color readily to water, forming a solution which was easily absorbed by the fabric. Herbs
and plants like turmeric and indigo were crushed to a fine powder and dissolved in
waters that cotton material could be dyed into deep colors. These colors have been
used in India since ancient times and are considered to be the origin of the art of dyeing.
Throughout Asia, India and the Far East, traders packed tie and dye cloths as part of
their merchandise.
Bandhani was introduced in Jamnagar when the city was founded 400 years ago.
Bandhani fabrics reign supreme in Rajasthan and Gujarat which are home to an
astounding variety of traditional crafts. Century‐old skills continue to produce some of
the most artistic and exciting wares in these two states and are popular all over the
world.
WHERE?
The art of Bandhani is practiced widely in Rajasthan, with Barmer,Jaipur, Sikar, Jodhpur,
Pali Udaipur, Nathdwara and Bikaner being the main centers. Bandhani comes in a
variety of designs, colors and motifs and these variations are region‐specific. Each
district has its own distinct method of Bandhani which makes the pattern recognizable
and gives it a different name.
The centers of tie and dye fabrics in Gujarat are Jamnagar in Saurashtra (the water in
this area brings out the brightest red while dyeing) and Ahmedabad. The craftsmen
from Rajasthan are easily recognized because they grow the nail of their little finger or
wear a small metal ring with a point to facilitate the lifting of cloth for tying. The
Gujarati craftsmen, however, prefer to work without these aids as no damage is done to
the cloth when one works with bare hands.
The Bandhani regions are
Rajasthan -Marwar‐‐Jodhpur,Mewar‐‐Udaipur,Shekhawati‐‐Sikar,Jhunjhunu, Churu
Gujarat -Jamnagar, Bhuj, Mandavi
Uttar Pradesh -Farukabad
It is difficult to trace the origins of this craft to any particular area. According to some
references it first developed in Jaipur in the form of Leheriya. But it is also widely
believed that it was brought to Kutch from Sindh by Muslim Khatris who are still the
largest community involved in the craft.
RAW MATERIAL :
The fabrics used for Bandhani are muslin, handloom, silk or voile.Various synthetic fabrics are also highly in demand.For tying knots mostly synthetic thread is used on the fabric.
Traditionally vegetable dyes were used but today chemical dyes are becoming very popular.
HOW?
PROCESS :The process, though relatively simple, is very time‐consuming. The tying of the fabric is
mostly carried out by women or young girls.
The material generally used is a thin loosely woven silk known as georgette or a cotton
known as malmal
 |
The area of the fabric to be dyed is outlined using fugitive colors. Then a clear thin sheet
of plastic, which has been pierced with pin holes, is kept over this area of the fabric and
using fugitive colours an imprint of the desired pattern is transferred onto the fabric.
The cloth is then dipped in napthol for five minutes and dyed in yellow or another light
color for two minutes.
Next it is rinsed,squeezed, dried and then tied again and dipped in a darker color. This is
kept for three to four hours(without opening the knots)to allow the color to soak in.
After the last dyeing process has been completed the fabric is washed and if necessary,
starched. After the fabric is dried, its folds are pulled apart in a particular way releasing
the knots and revealing their pattern. The result is a usually deep colored cloth with dots
of various colours forming a pattern.
bells and jalas. Knots are placed in clusters each with a different name, for example, a
single dot is called Ekdali, three knots is called Trikunti and four knots is called
Chaubundi. Such clusters are worked intricately into patterns such as Shikargah
(mountain‐like), Jaaldar(web‐like), Beldaar(vine‐like) etc.
Rajasthan is well known for its Leheriya pattern or pattern of waves, which symbolizes
water waves.Only two colors are used which alternate each other in a pattern of stripes
arranged diagonally.Originally,the two colors used were the auspicious colors of yellow
and red. Turbans, odhnis and saris with the leheriya pattern are liked and worn all
around year.
 |
| Showing leheriya tied diagonally being dipped |
While red represents a bride, a yellow background suggests a lady has become a mother recently.
MARKET :
The bulk of the market is domestic with the main market being in Gujarat where most women wear Bandhani saris, shawls or odhnis. The odhnis are also decorated with mirrors, gota and
tassels to give it a richer and more decorative look.
Today, designers are using Bandhani fabric for contemporary clothing and it is being used to represent India in the international circuit. New colors and patterns are being used to cater to a wider market, though traditional red, yellow and pink still continue to be the all‐time favorites!
Bibliography
1. http://www.indianwomenonline.com/womenhome/indianmosaic/textiles/Bandh
ani/Bandhani.asp
2. www.greatvistachemicals.com
3. http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/fiberreactive.shtml
4. http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/history_tiedye.shtml
Your blog is very interesting. Thanks for sharing nice information on Western Fabrics | Bandhni Fabrics
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