Paithani Saree

Paithani Saree

During the powerful rule of Maratha empire there were several dynasties such as:

Scindias- malwa and Gwalior

Holkars- indore

Gaekwads- baroda

Peswas- pune

Bhosles Nagpur

All of the dynasties in a way led to development of many varieties of nine yard sarees. Most well known to the maharashtrian families are chanderi, maheshwari, and paithani.

Paithani saree weaving technique is one of the oldest textile technique from central indai. It was very popular and weaving was at its peak during the rule of the peswas in the 18^th century.

It was originally woven with cotton with motifs in silk. Today it is woven only in silk with zari. Originally only vegetable dyes were used to get saffron, red, yellow, blue, pink and black. Today they are available in a range of bright colours.

Vibrant motifs are used for the borders and pallu. Most commonly used motifs are flowers, leaves, trees, birds such as parrot and peacock, lotus, hansa tota-maina duo,small circles, stars, cotton flowers, leaves, pairs of parrots, human-bird, pomegranate flower, gold coin, vine of grapes and geometric forms.

These sarees are woven on raised pitloom. For intricate designs the paper design is placed under the wrap to guide the weaver to follow the layout. The coloured body, borders, and pallu are woven by either interlocking the wefts or by joining coloured warp threads together. Many motifs across the width of the saree require the use of many weft colours at a time.

A paithani is generally 6 and a half yards in length. One saree consumes 500 to 575 grams of silk and 200 to 250 grams of zari.

Weaving a good paithani saree could take over a year.

Paithani sarees are mostly worn as bridal wear in maharashtrian weddings.

Local names of paithani colours:

Peach-pink – Aboli

White-red pale green – Firozi

Black and white blend – Gujri

Green-blue blend – Morphankhi

Black-red blend – Mirani

Pale pink – Motia

Blue – Neeligunji

Red-pink green blend – Pasila

Yellow – Pophali

Green-red – Samprus

White – Sankirodak

Fainter black – Uddani

Purple - Vangi