Is Ornamentation Important?

The Oxford dictionary defines ‘Ornamentation’ as "The act or process of decorating, adorning or embellishing". It is derived from the Latin word ornāre, which means 'to adorn'. Clothes can be seen as an example of ornamenting ones body and so the early signs of this can be dated back to the prehistoric age when animal skin and leaves were used to dress one-self. Textile weaving is almost as old as civilization, and has been developed from the oldest technique of basket weaving. The earliest examples of textiles were the plain linen cloths that were excavated from the tombs of the Pharaohs. The discovery of these textiles gave light to the idea of the loom and its first depiction was seen drawn on the pottery from ancient Egypt.

Since then, textiles have undergone a major metamorphosis. Each century in history and each country have had a role in shaping this change. When we look back, we remember the significant and striking developments to textiles such as the sari, which dates back to India 5,000 years ago. If we look at the sari today, we can see how it has evolved. There are so many more ways to drape it, and a variety of colours, prints, textures and materials now available. In other words, the Sari is now stylized and "style originates from ornamentation".

The ornamentation of fabric can be through dyeing, embroidery, mirror work, printing or as simple as giving shape to cloth. While many consider the outcome of ornamentation to be positive, the German architect Adolf Loos had strong opinions against it, which is evident in his essay ‘Ornament and Crime’. Ornamentation to him is “degenerate”. He compares the modern man who appreciates ornamentation and the fine arts to be “criminal” and dishonorable raising a similarity between him and the cannibalistic Papuan tribe. He believes less cultured countries are the ones who appreciate graffiti and “The evolution of culture is synonymous with the removal of ornament from objects of daily use.”

I on the other hand, want to contradict his statement. I believe that culturally rich countries are the ones that use ornamentation as a form of expression. Culture denotes the way of thinking, the attire and the everyday life of the people residing in the country. Art is therefore a communication tool that expresses to the world what is important to the culture of that country and what sets it apart from the others.By looking at signature ornamentation techniques used in products, we can instantly judge where the product has originated. For example, looking at the video ‘Threads of Art’ showing Yinka Shonibare’s work, we can tell that the shape given to his fabric is inspired by the Victorian era and the patterns/prints are of African origin.

Yinka Shonibare's textile installation

Several examples of techniques and patterns used for ornamentation have brought about cultural exchange of designs. The Paisley for instance, is a teardrop/mango shaped motif that has been influenced by different cultures. It was originated in Iran where it was known as ‘Boteh’ and then travelled to the west as a result of the trade of cashmere goods, from Kashmir to India, China, and then Europe where it was given the Western name Paisley (named after the Scottish textile town). Looking at pictures of how the Paisley was incorporated in the textiles of different countries, a clear evolution of this motif is visible.The early designs were more natural with influence from floral patterns while the newer, European depictions are more geometric.

Dochalla (shawl), 18th century,Kashmir, cotton and silk twill weave

European depiction of the Paisley motif

Another point I would like to make is about self-identity. The way we dress and embellish our bodies with jewellery or tattoos for instance, speaks a lot about individuality. It’s what we leave behind as a mark to be remembered. We often involuntarily tend to judge a person by their outward appearance, for example a person with several tattoos is perceived to be a rebel or a person in plain clothing to be serious in nature. It’s this mindset that we have to change where we stereotype people based on loose assumptions. Without ornamentation, life would be boring with no variety. Everyone would look the same, dress the same and the world of art and crafts would come to a standstill.