CHANDERI SILK

Location

The town of Chanderi is located in the state of Madhya Pradesh, India.

Chanderi was also centrally located on ancient trade routes and its culture and traditions are the result of a mix of external influences.

Description

Chanderi is produced out of three raw materials: cotton, silk thread and zari. All of these materials are imported from other regions in India, as well as China, Japan and Korea.

Evolution of Chanderi

1890’s – Weaver’s changed from handspun yarn to mill made yarn

1910    – The royal family of Scindia brought the Chanderi saree under their patronage

–      Gold thread motif made its presence in the main body of the cotton muslin saree for the first time.

1920-

1960’s – Introduction of the silk yarn and over the yeas dobby and jacquard use came into existence.

1970’s – Cluster went forward to weave another variety of fabric that combined a silk warp with a cotton weft.

Identification

Chanderi was always woven using handspun cotton warps and wefts. It was spun as fine as 300 counts, and was as prized amongst cotton fabrics as the famed muslins of Dhaka. However, the Industrial Revolution sounded the first death knell on this beautiful textile. The British imported cheaper 120 to 200-count cotton from Manchester, which greatly eroded the market for the more expensive Chanderi cloth.

Motifs & Buttis

The handmade Buttis are permanent in its nature and existence as well, interlaced and its original shape and structure always remain the same even after its long use. Whereas in comparison the Buttis created with the use of Power loom are not permanent and losses its shape and structure after some time.

Since the inception of the Chanderi fabric and primarily ladies sarees, the buttis on the Fabric are hand-woven on Handloom. There is no use of any other process of manufacturing and it is Gold coated, Silver coated and as well as Copper coated. Now a days Tested Zari Butti are also common and in use. The Tested Zari is made with the use of Synthetic yarn. 

Some of the various beautifully striking motifs include ‘Nalferma, ‘Dandidar, ‘Chatai’, ‘Jangla’, Mehndi wale haath’ etc. With around 3,500 looms in working condition, 18,000 people are directly or indirectly dependent on the industry for their living.

The motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral and peacocks to the geometrics.

Color and Texture

The colors of Chanderi silk come from both natural as well as chemical processes. Currently, chemical dyes are preferred due to their fast-acting quality. Soft pastel shades characterize most Chanderi Sarees.

Unlike, the most flamboyant Kanjivaram sarees of South India, or the Paithani sarees of the West, most Chanderi sarees display a remarkably subtle balance between the colors used on the body and those on the borders.

The hand-woven silk has a light, sheer quality that sets it apart from textiles produced en masse in factories.

Economic Data

Due to small amount of silk that is produced, there is very little economic data. The production of Chanderi silk employs approximately 60% of the village population. In order to protect themselves from against market forces, many of the local weavers have formed cooperatives, which set standards for the price and quality of the products available.

Manufacturing Process