PAITHANI

Paithani  is a type of sari named after the paithan  town in Aurangabad , Maharashtra state where they are woven by hand. Made from very fine silk, it is considered as one of the richest saris in Maharashtra.

HISTORY:

Known the world over as a poem hand woven in silk and gold, Paithani Sarees are for those with discerning and refined taste.

The art of weaving Paithani flourished in 200B.C., during Satvahana era.

Since then Paithani is coveted in India as a precious heirloom passing on from generation to generation.

Exquisite silk from Paithani was   exported to many countries and was traded in return for gold and precious stones.

Shear dedication and the faith of the weavers has kept alive Paithani silk work for more than 2000years.

Real Paithani is hand woven pure silk and gold/silver.

MATERIAL:

Silk and zari are used in weaving the paithani saris.

3 types of silk yarns used:

1 – charka – cheap , dull and

                     uneven

2 – ciddle ghatta – fine quality ,thin

                               sheer , shiny ,

                               smooth and even

3 – china silk – very expensive

Zari is a metallic yarn made of pure silver.

Mainly produced in surat

Initially paithani saris were made using gold zari.

The colored silk is used in the figurative forms .

Warp threads are only of zari forming a golden ground upon which angular, brightly coloured silk designs are woven in the interlocked weft, producing a tapestry effect.

MOTIFS:

Due to its proximity to the Ajanta caves, the influence of the Buddhists paintings can be seen in the paithani motifs.

The Kamal 

The Hans motif

The Ashraffi motif

The Asawalli (flowering vines), became very popular during the Peshwa's period

The Bangadi Mor, peacock in bangle

The Tota-Maina

The Humarparinda, peasant bird

The Amar Vell

The Narali motif

circles, stars, kuyri, rui phool, kalas pakhhli

chandrakor, clusters of 3 leaves

THE PALLU:

The pallu of the paithani sari has the following motifs all woven with zari.

Muniya - a kind of parrot used in borders and always found in green colour with an occasional red touch at the mouth

Panja -  a geometrical flower-like motif, most often outlined in red

Barwa -  12 strands of a ladder; 3 strands on each side

Laher -  design is done in the centre to strengthen the zari

Muthada -  a geometrical design

Asawali -  a flower pot with a flowering plant

Mor - a peacock

COLOR AND DYEING

1 - The weavers of Yeola dye yarns themselves. Yarn is purchased from Bangalore.

2 - Vat dyes and  acid  dyes are used because of its favourable properties.

3 -Bleaching and dyeing is done in copper  vessels.

4 - 20 to 30 grams of dye powder is used per kg of yarn, which is mixed in water.

5 - Acid is used for fixation. 

6 - Coconut oil is used to give a soft finish to silk.

7 - The yarns are dipped in the dye bath for 30 to 40 minutes using copper rods.

8 - It is then removed, washed a few times in water and then squeezed.

9 - The yarn is dried in the shade.

Traditional colours

The dominant traditional colours of vegetable dyes included:

Pophali – yellow , red , lavender , purple , neeligunj – sky blue , magenta , motiya – peach pink , purple , peacock blue green , kusumbi – red violet , mirani –black red

Paithani can be classified by three criteria: motifs, weaving, and colours.

Motif

Bangadi mor : This motif is woven onto the pallu .The saris using this motif are very expensive because of the design.

Munia brocade: Parrots are woven on the pallu as well as in border. Parrots are always in leaf green colour. The parrots in silk are also called tota-maina.

Lotus brocade: lotus motifs are used in pallu and sometimes on the border. The lotus motif consists of 7-8 colours.

Weaving

Kadiyal border sari: Kadiyal means interlocking. The warp and the weft of the border are of the same colour while the body has different colours for warp and weft.

Kadi: A single shuttle is used for weaving of weft. The colours of the warp yarn is different from that of the weft yarn. It has a narali border and simple buttis like paisa, watana, etc. Kad is also a form of lungi and is used by male Maharashtrians.

Colour

Kalichandrakala: pure black sari with red border.

Raghu: parrot green coloured sari.

Shirodak: pure  white  sari.