Pashmina : History and modernity

An introduction :

The name comes from Pashmineh, made from Indian pashm ( pershian term for wool).The wool comes from changthangi or Pashmina goat, which is a special breed of goat indigenous to high altitudes of the Himalayas in Nepal, Pakistan and Northern India.

Through my research on this fabric, and the lectures previously attemded through this course, it was interesting to note that due to the value and exclusivity of the fabric, we make certain assumptions about the one’s wearing it – their taste, class , resources and so on. This relates back to what we have discussed earlier, about drawing observations through reading cloth.

We have spoken about ornamentation, how it relates to intellect and refined taste- is it fair to say then, that even adorning this fine fabric is a form of ornamentation- thereby causing some to think of it as unnecessary?

Some technical know- how :

The pashmina goat (capra hircus) lives in -40 degree Celsius temperature most of the year and grows a dense coat of very fine hair to protect itself from the elements. The soft pashm, or inner coat, is six times finer than human hair, between 14 and 19 microns in diameter, and one of the rarest wools in the world. The cashmere hair must be separated from the dense outer coat and hand woven because the wool is too thin and delicate for machines.

                                     

How did it come into being?

The first pashmina shawls were constructed and worn out of necessity by the Tibetan people who lived in the harsh conditions of the Himalayas. Worn for centuries, these pashmina shawls and other items made from cashmere wool were perfected by the Tibetan people in the Kathmandu Valley and were popular trade items with villages in the surrounding areas. Originally a necessity, the beauty and softness of the pashmina shawls attracted buyers from across the East and eventually even from Europe.

                                      

Small scale to well established :

What really pushed the pashmina trade from village crafts to prosperous industry was the sole right of the Kashmir kings to purchase all pashminas from Nepal, Tibet and the Himalayas. This steady market allowed those involved in making pashminas to perfect their craft, worrying about quality rather than quantity, because the demand was constant and the price good. The Kashmir kings, however, profited the most from this deal with the craftsmen, when they learned how much their fashionable product appealed to European markets.  The founder of the cashmere wool industry is traditionally held to be the 15th century ruler of Kashmir, Zayn-ul–Abidin, who introduced weavers from Central Asia.

Although the reasons for this introduction are not stated explicitly, researching into the textiles that have been produced in those regions (ikat, islamic patterns , persian rugs and carpets etc) , provide reasonable reason to believe that these weavers had a far deeper sense of detail , color, intricacy and dyeing techniques than the existing weavers. Since the weavers were bought in by royalty, it is easy to understand that they wanted elaborate patterns to match the sublime feel of the fabric , as a mark of luxury externally.

                                      

Famous collectors and european versions :

While some Europeans had been interested in the shawls in the 1600s, they became extremely popular in France and Britain in the late 18th century and early 19th century. Napoleon's Josephine was a famous collector. Scottish merchants attracted to the wool imported cashmere goats and bred their own strain of cashmere. Fashionable women all over Europe began wearing the warm yet chic pashmina shawls and eventually, in the 19th century, Jacquard power looms allowed textile producers in France to produce their own version of pashmina shawls. The pure pashmina, however, has always been far too delicate to weave on a machine, and those shawls produced in Europe were generally blended with silk or another stronger fiber.

                                                     

The distinction from Shahtoosh :

Cashmere fibers are removed from live goats÷the animals are not harmed nor are they slaughtered. The herders live in communion with their goats; although it is a difficult life for the herders and goats living in the frigid Mongolian winter months, the lives of the herders and animals are respected. 

"Shatoosh" is not cashmere or pashmina.

The term, "Shatoosh" describes the fine hair from the Tibetan antelope or chiru, which is being slaughtered for this hair and is traded illegally under Chinese and international law.

It is illegal to import or trade Shatoosh in the United States , now followed my most countries of the world.

                                   

Is the modern pashmina authentic?

Today the term "pashmina" can mean many different things in the Western world. Often "pashmina" simply describes the style of a soft wool shawl. Almost all pashminas found today are made with wool blends, silk being the most popular.