Tuesday, August 20, 2013

IKAT

The word 'ikat'comes from a Malay word " Mengnikat" which means,  "tied or bound" and it's a type of weaving that uses tie and dye on either the warp or weft threads before weaving. 
The technique of' ikat' is to bind or clamp bunches of yarn before it is dyed to prevent the dye from seeping into the bound areas. There are three types of' ikats': 
Warp 'ikat', in which the warp threads are bound to form a resist pattern.
 Weft 'ikat' in which the horizontal threads are bound. 
Double 'ikat'  in which both the warp and weft threads are bound. 
Producing' ikat' textiles is a highly skilled work and requires a great deal of patience as the threads are re-tied many times to get the color sequences required to achieve the patterns. The 'ikats' are then woven on looms using a weft thread passed across the warp. The resulting patterns are sometimes characterized by their feathery edges. 
'Ikat' weaving technique:
After the threads have been dyed they are set up on the loom-usually in this stage the warp threads are carefully adjusted to line up with each other. 
Double' ikats' are woven on a frame less loom where the warp is stretched across the room under tension with the heddles suspended from above. These' ikats' demand a great deal of precision in the weaving and the resist tying is done finely in two - thread units to create fine detail and fine curves. There are many decorative elements in the traditional designs of' ikat'. Nature is the main inspiration : mountains, rivers, flowers, plants and birds are often feathered .
There are three main types of' ikats' produced in India!
1.  Patola Ikat - Gujarat
Is a double' ikat' textile.
Consists of geometrical patterns.
Resembles the mosaic art.
2. The Bandhas of Orissa
Is a single' ikat'.
These forms are deliberately " feathered" so that their edges appear hazy and fragile .
This effect is achieved by the use of very fine yarn, which is tied and dyed in very small sets.
The types of patterns used in this style are floral, figurative or geometrical patterns.
Forms are separated by fine stripes or brocade bands.
3. Telia Rumals - Andhara Pradesh
These rumals are square shaped.
size- 55cn x 75cm
They are dyed in a square grid forms with floral or figurative motifs.
They use mostly red and pinks along with black and white patterns.
A lot of double' ikat' textiles have been influenced by the Patola textiles of Gujarat.
Today these are particularly identified as Pochampali Patola .These in earlier types were used as fishing nets.


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